23 and a half hours

Just in case you needed a reason.




So everyone knows it's good to exercise right? Why don't we apply this to pregnant women? Why aren't pregnant women told that exercise is good? What needs to change?

39 weeks and USA Today

Click photo to go to article

USA Today's Rita Rubin went out on an edge and wrote about fit pregnancies in today's paper. She and I spoke after she saw my video "39 weeks"



We had a wonderful discussion. Her keen observations and interest were inspiring. We spoke about the growing number of women who are actively seeking (pun intended) physical fitness throughout their pregnancy. Obviously, this isn't the first time in history that women have been active during pregnancy or even rock climbed during it for that matter. The point she was most interested in is to our cultures mentality of shunning exercise during pregnancy and also the lack of research to back up anything to the contrary. While I was pregnant (and I have an entire 9 months of blog posts if you click along) I tried to be mindful. I spoke with my doctor. I used the amazing amount of knowledge that I have gained about my own body through 7 years of competitive gymnastics, 10 years of dance and Pilates, along with 10 more years of climbing and now, Physical Therapy school.

We spoke about how I came to decide to continue climbing. My reply was very simple. After a clean bill of health I made a contract with myself that the moment climbing didn't feel GOOD, I would stop. And I found that with a shift in mentality, it always felt good! Thankfully.

I've talked to so many women since making the film "39 weeks". I've heard stories of women who wished there was something like this that they had known about. I've talked to women who have gone the distance by themselves as I did. All these women had varying degrees of physical ability both before and after pregnancy but all were able to continue running, or climbing, or dancing, or swimming, etc. throughout.

Personally, I cannot imagine running a marathon pregnant, but that's my body. We are all different and exercise should be a part of every person's life. Pregnant or not. This is the point that should be focused on. Why are we not applying our understanding of the human body and it's healthful functioning to women who are pregnant. Doesn't this seem counter-intuitive. Wouldn't we want women who are growing our future in their bellies to be the healthiest they can be? I know there needs to be a protective layer to all this but not so much that it resists the mere idea based on fear.

This is an amazing time! Here is the opportunity for research. We have started the discussion, let's spread the idea: Pregnant women are strong! I only hope that Johns Hopkins discovers that this statement has meaning.

Joe's Valley

When Kyle told me I should go on a climbing trip for a few days in order to night wean Sebastian, my first instinct was to run before he changed his mind. I am amazed with my husband's strong manlyness as well as his caring and sweet fatherlyness. He truly is the best man I've ever met. So, here is a taste of mama CC's first solo trip post babe. I'm not going to say it wasn't hard to leave. I saw a little baby on day two and started crying. I had to walk away and numb the pain on a heinously crimpy rock climb called "Hooters". And I'm not making up the name to fit my story either.


Lewis the dog and I set off in the morning to meet some of my PT school classmates in Joe's. We arrived a bit late, missed the warm up session and went straight to Planet of the Apes (v6).

Scott on Planet of The Apes

I need to get stronger to do this rock climb. I can't use the same holds everyone else does and I end up just sticking to some crimps next to the rail. It's not easy but it's a really cool climb. Even with my beta :)

We strolled up to Will's a fire and were met with a scene of people an pads. No fear here that's for sure!

Halley, Matt, Scott

Me doing my favorite move on Will's a Fire (v6).
Photo by Matthew Paul Irving taken with my camera.

He also took a photo of a disgusting toe that I will not be sharing with you. You can thank me when you see me. I did not send Will's, sadly. The top crimp kept moving further and further away from me. Sneaky crimp. We ended the day on Kill by Numbers. A nice little v5 roof with an awkward mantle finish. Just ask anyone there, I made that mantle look like a ballet. (read much sarcasm in that statement)

Photo by Matthew Paul Irving

There is a pizza joint in Castledale aptly named, "PIZZA" and this is what they sell. I highly recommend this place though sadly, there is no beer available. It is rumored that 4 guys finished one of these in 30 minutes. Just putting it out there.

Day two was full of high ball rock climbing. The agenda that morning was to go do Dirty Hairy and Frosted Flakes. I had neither seen nor heard much about either problem. With a leisurely start that entailed eggy goodness with green onion meatball crumbles, chopped veggies, basil, and parmesaen burritos. yum. breakfast is the most important meal of the day. We set off towards the Hulk area.
The UMWA and The Small one provided a 15 problem warm-up circuit that more than prepared us to crush. We walked up to Dirty Hairy amidst chatter about people flying off the top towards near death and being caught pretty much in the trees. I was paralyzed with fear. I walked up to it and announced that I would not be doing this boulder problem then commenced to analyzing the moves and holds and being increasingly full of nerves. The thing is, it's not really that hard. The moves at the bottom are techy and they get you up the boulder in fast time so before you know it you are pretty exposed for the crux which is the top out. Mike Pirozzi sensed the stagnation of psych and displayed ease on the lower moves. After a moment of contemplation I had a rouse of inspiration and proclaimed that I would, "Take this problem as my own." I watched Halley top it out and new it would be a stretch. Even though I didn't grab the side pull pocket well I was still able to have enough tough and spirit to engage the hold, realize the exposure and rally towards the top. HALLEY-luyah! Phew. Glad that's done. Glad I did it. Done. Now towards the Dairy where the problems are slopey and completely different!

Halley searching for the holds on a problem in the dairy.

Moon rise over our campsite.

Third day on and I was pretty much spent. I barely made it off the pad and seriously considered diving into this beautiful but icy cold stream.

Mike the rock climber.

Mike the angler.

Matt Pincus the crusher.

Will's a Fire will be mine. I would also like to try Big Joe, Big Boy, and complete my slopey proj in the dairy which is named something like Basher the buncher or Beshman or something. I call it "The confident Liar" and I am now a self proclaimed consultant for FA names. I have a whole list if anyone's interested.
CC

Days of Summer

Well, I've tried many times to do a summer post. Believe me I have. But every time I entered the office I felt that I would suffocate from heat stroke. Salt Lake in the summer is oppressively hot and I've heard that this summer was "quite mild". (blurgh) I almost burned myself putting my lap top on my lap last time I tried to write a post. These are my excuses and I'm sticking to them.
It is the first day of Fall and what a glorious change it has been. I feel relieved and almost post traumatically reminiscent of summer.
So here are some highlights:

Rock Mama Posse! I feel so lucky to have found the Rock Moms of SLC.

Blacksmith Fork Canyon in June

Kelly

Rosie and Mike


Controlled Chaos

I top roped the entire time. Unable to summon the lost courage to send 5.12 on the sharp end. It wasn't until John Sherman came to visit and imparted some hard man wisdom upon me. But before I relay it to you...the beach trip:

45 minutes outside of Vegas we had a blowout. 70 mph, I looked up from the passengers seat just in time to see our tire rolling off the side of the interstate. We were lucky and Volvo XC's are just as safe as they say.

San Clemente

Sebastian got his toes wet in the ocean waves for the first time. He loved it! He would just stomp and stare at the water as it rushed up toward him.

A level playing field: Goal by Ava with a strong assist by Luna and Ansel.


Carlsbad


Kyle and Bash

I had a whole two week break between semesters so we spent most of it driving :)
Upon returning to SLC we repacked the car and headed to Lander, WY with the Perozi's and Kris Dockstader and Noah Bigwood and their son Benjamin. Talk about some hard rock crushing family people...

Lander City Park. Not a bad place to camp.


Locals


Wild Iris: A pregnant and still crushing Cheryl.

I had a hard time keeping up. But those words of John Sherman's kept ringing in my ears. I made the mistake of telling him that I had been "taking" on sport climbs. Boy was that the wrong thing to say, let alone do. So hear it here people.

"Take. I don't know what that means." the Verm exploded. "We never took in the old days. We didn't trust our gear enough to do that."
"So what if the route was at your end range? What if you couldn't make it to the top?" I asked
"We made it to the top no matter what." He said with a tone of arrogance. (Such that any well versed OLD school climber is entitled to.)
"We would down climb, rest, shake it out. And continue up. That's how you get strong."

So this is the mantra I had in my head as we embarked upon Wild Iris.

"Take? What does that even mean?"

I embodied this to the best of my ability and surprised myself. I also backed off of a couple routes that were above my ability but I learned. I also led and fell and cleaned my first 12 since having Sebastian. It was rejuvinating. It scared me and I would totally do it again!

"Take? No way."

Ava sent her own boulder problem and then jumped off the summit. Ala Steph Davis...but not high and without a parachute...

So here's to the end of summer. Thank God. Now lets go bouldering.

The Climber

The Climber is the official magazine of the NZ alpine club. It's the only climbing magazine published in NZ. It is an honor to write a piece about climbing while pregnant for this magazine given the line up of bad asses that usually grace this publication. Kiwi's are a hard core group with egos the size of peanuts and cojones that could crush a bull. The article is called, "A kick inside" and I'm happy that the idea of climbing while pregnant is starting to be an accepted one throughout the world. It's really not as scary as it sounds and it certainly made my pregnancy so much more enjoyable.

photo by Kyle George

Summertime

It actually feels like summer right now. I just finished my first semester of physical therapy school at the University of Utah. It's a very demanding Doctoral program and I'm loving it but I'm also being tested by it in more ways than just academics. I feel so proud to have rocked it this semester after having just given birth and uprooted my family from our home in Flagstaff to Salt Lake City. It's been quite the trial but it's been so worth it. We are all completely stoked on our new playground and have hit the ground running. Kyle is mountain biking, Ava is swimming in the creeks and playing with the wild animals :)

Snail race with over 30 snails found in the driveway.

We are barely surviving the sweltering heat and I hear this summer has been pleasantly mild...
We are also adapting to drinking the 3.2 beer and I've found it's a nice study beer, being that it's mostly water.
I just finished a 6 week training regimen and am ready to go surf in California before we head north to Lander.

Training Log
15 minute traverse/wall warm-up
System board training:
1. Lock off's

5 sets of 5 lock off's with one arm (other arm is on another hold but doing minimal work). Try doing with same leg as arm, then switch opposite foot on as arm which is pulling for next 5 set of 5.
5 sets of 5 pinches (three up, three down moving up the wall)
5 sets of 5 crimps
2. Hang board or finger board
Choose a size and simply hang for 10 seconds, 10 times

By this point my tendons are thoroughly worked so I switch tracks to endurance.

3. 35-40 minutes of treadmill running.
I can do 30 minutes straight now but when I feel like I'm gonna pass out I switch over to the eliptical to work my quads and I can hold on tight!!! Can you imagine falling while running on the treadmill. I was interested so I googled it and spent 25 minutes either laughing hysterically or wondering what the world would be like without stupid people...

4. Stretching and Pilates to finish.

Now it's time to get outside and play!!!! Have fun out there!

A Lovely Little Cottonwood Day

A short day at the secret garden area was fun and fruitful. Twisted is the area classic. Highly recommended. I fell of the very last move 4 times before I could hoist my body high enough to grab the JUG. Kelly showed me the moves :)


Twisted v4
Wren Delligatti (Kelly's daughter) learns to spot. It's a great way to get an 18 month old involved and keep her out of harms way. She stood about 5 feet behind me and we prompted her by saying, "Help me spot." and she would throw her arms up in the air and stand attentively while her mama or I climbed.
We had three kids with us and this area kept them enclosed and happy. There are "tunnels" in between the rocks and LOTS of inch worms to put in an inch worm zoo.