Happy New Year!

Happy 2011 everyone!!!

Last year was great but I have a feeling that this year is going to be fantastic! I've never been one for idols or new years resolutions but I do have goals. My goals for this year are to send labor (at least a 5.22c/d), get into physical therapy school (probably v12), and get back into climbing shape.



photo by Kyle George

On the media front, check out the prAna LOVE!
http://www.prana.com/blog/2010/12/24/20-questions-interview-with-carrie-cooper-video/

I can't wait till after I have my baby so I can actually wear my new Kyra Jacket. I love that companies are moving sideways and using natural fibers again. I love wool. Traveling in New Zealand really sealed it when everything was soaking wet and cold but my wool still kept me warm miraculousy!

Health, wealth, and happiness to all!

Climbing pregnant: Weak 33

Well this one is a short post cause I'm WEAK!
I made the mistake of not climbing for the last two weeks and now I'm all outta pregnancy climbing shape! Suck. I tried to climb a couple days ago and only did four routes (all 5.9). And they felt sooooooo hard. But I wasn't sore at all! Which means that its my endurance that took the dive. That time I took off because of the holiday's eating obligations made me stiff. I've had more hip and back pain than usual. Plus more swelling. YAY!
I went climbing and did those few routes and my body was tired yes but it was like it gave this giant sigh and said thank you. Climbing stretches the old tissues. Phew. I feel better.
I shall now refer to weeks 32 and 33 as WEAKs.
It is 7 degrees outside today with the sun shining. brrrrrrrrr
I really want to go sledding and or skiing. But I generally don't do either of those activities very safely in the first place. This coming week I'm going to work really hard to not hibernate too much and get those juices flowing!!!!
We'll see how it all goes down.

Week 32: Balance: An argument in favor of climbing pregnant

Balance seems to be a popular question from people who discover that I'm still climbing. They ask, "How is your balance?"
"You must fall a lot."
"Does that big belly make you tip over?" That one is my personal favorite. Thanks for the compliment.
My answer is NO!!

Balance is a product of a few key factors. The main ones being muscle tone and balanced proprioception. These sensors in your body tell you whether or not your foot bone is connected to your leg bone and they tell you if you are standing, and if you are standing solidly most importantly. We use our vision for 90% of our balance. Have you ever tried to stand still with your eyes closed? How about on one leg with your eyes closed? It takes practice and what do you think you are training? Your proprioceptors.

Putting all this into context, as a pregnancy progresses, weight is gained in the center of a womans body. The center is the belly, the mid section that connects your top half to your bottom half and because there is little help from this area late in pregnancy, other adjustments must be made.

That myth that pregnant women fall over a lot, in theory, has to do with whether she sits all the time or is able to move and exercise.

So here is my argument for climbing while pregnant.

Climbing allows for a change in weight distribution. A climber must shift weight onto the left foot to lift the right foot, must balance weight in the center in order to match on a hold above the head. If a pregnant woman climbs throughout pregnancy, as a pound is added each week, proprioceptors are able to adjust to this change and therefore balance throughout the body is maintained.

I may not be good at picking things up off the floor or tying my shoes but I can balance on one leg with my eyes closed. I did it yesterday.

Climbing is good for pregnant women.

Climbing pregnant, the first fall: Week 30

It never crossed my mind that I might, at some point, actually fall while climbing. I know, duh, it is a possibility, I just hadn't considered it. I have been very thorough with whomever is belaying me. Checking and double checking that everyone is double backed, locked and loaded. I make sure that my belayer knows to keep me tight so I don't go far if I was to fall. All the precautions were there, and I felt safe.
A few nights ago I was in the gym, same old same old. I was warmed up, it was my last hard climb of the session. I placed my foot on a positive but slick foot hold, and stretched up for a far reaching hand hold. SLIP. My foot skated off and off I went. I was dangling there in space when I realized I had actually fallen. During which time I tightened my abs as much as they would tighten (reflexes), so tight in fact that I had a hard time getting them to relax. I re-situated myself to a more comfortable resting spot and contemplated what had just happened. I sat there, waiting for the contractions to start. But there was nothing. My breath wasn't labored, my body felt fine. I was fine. So I kept climbing, I finished the route and called it a day.
Even though everything seemed well and good, I needed to feel the baby move before I was on a path towards ease of mind. I sat down to take off my climbing shoes and put on my regular shoes and bam bam bam goes the baby. Knocking around in there like nothing out of the ordinary had happened.
I would have been fine had the voices of the hundreds of people who have said to me,
"You aren't still climbing are you?"
"Oh that's so dangerous, what about the baby?"
"You shouldn't be climbing, should you?"
And even though I know how to answer each and every one of their questions and comments. Even though I know that everything is fine and that climbing feels better than walking. Even though the baby was moving, I didn't get a single contraction...
The ghost-like voices in my head filled me with anxiety. It took me two days of talking myself, talking to the baby, talking to my medical practitioner friends for me to let go of the notion that I had damaged the baby by falling a 1/4" on top-rope.
I'm fine,
the babies fine,
if something irregular happens with the baby, it has nothing to do with my climbing. If mama is happy, baby is happy.
How much better can I take care of the growing life in my belly than to eat well, be well, and choose activities that give me peace of mind.
F*** the police.

My New Best friend

We recently got a few inches of snow which have quickly turned to ice which summoned a sort of unwanted dance. I almost fell three times yesterday so I have turned to Kahtoola for answers...
The Microspikes. I went for a walk on the ice today then romped up into the snowy hillside with my dog. No problemo.
Holla!

Climbing pregnant: Week 26

I've officially reverted back to infancy. I have to have lots of snack breaks, naps, snuggles, and I cry when I laugh. I figure its natures way of teaching my child in utero how he should act when he's in the outside world.
I really wish I could talk to someone in the design department at PETZL about some preggers adjustments for the harness. I fear that it is my harness that is going to slow my climbing and not my body. This should not be!
This pregnancy has happened a lot faster than my last, meaning that I am bigger faster. But I can still crank on small holds!!!!
I've noticed that my endurance has improved as well as my finger strength. I'm getting much weaker moving my feet up to new holds and I have to grunt to do a high step. Sometimes I can't high step. 5.11 is my happy place. I can still challenge myself at that grade but I don't feel like I'm damaging myself. I still try 5.12 but I usually don't make it very far. Maneuverability being my biggest hurdle. I got the OK from my doctor the other day who told me that it was ok to use my stomach muscles as much as I wanted so I can suck it in, so to speak, when I need to.

I'm enjoying my slow degradation. Every week I do get a little weaker. I don't push it even though I know that I used to climb MUCH harder. I'm listening to my body. As I go up a route I don't just push push push. I pause on easier holds, relax my belly, relax my hips, muscles, breath. I treat the climb like a dance more than a push to the top. Each move (especially the easier ones) I try to do with as much finesse as possible. I don't allow myself to get too locked in a position where I'm struggling to make the move. Being a pregnant athlete means you get to enjoy yourself and take it easy more than I would usually allow myself to take it easy.

So far, I've noticed I have MUCH less edema than my last pregnancy. All this motion must be good for circulation.

I'm still enjoying my climbing:
6-7 routes 2 times per week
Warm-up 5.8/5.9 (2)
(2) 5.10's
5.11
5.11 project
Finish with a pumpy 5.10 OR try a 12 and usually fail miserably but at least I tried!
Stretch and do standing rows with a theraband or band system. Pull shoulder blades back and strengthen the opposing muscles that are being pulled forward by the weight in my front half.

Climbing pregnant, Week 24: Body harness

I fit in with the kids. That's really the first thing I noticed with the Petzl 8003 adult body harness. At first glance I thought it would be a puzzle to put on but it turned out to be way easier than any regular harness I've used. The "belay loop" as it were is in a very good place for a pregnant woman. It fits comfortably under my bra line and the rope or belay device connects the two sides of the harness. At first it felt really strange to tie in so high and I had to modify my belay technique just a hair to be able to belay comfortably. These are things any climber would easily figure out. The one conundrum is how to make the entire thing fit so it is snug but doesn't hinder my extension.

If I make the leg loops tight so they don't meander as I climb (which is really annoying and I end up fiddling with them throughout the route but hey it's good for endurance..) it shortens my reach. For example, if I have to walk my feet high to make a move that is at the extent of my entire 5'1" frame, the harness tightens in and I end up with a total length that is about 2 inches short of my norm...not that I need any more length cause I'm so tall. I've tried loosening the shoulder straps (dangerous), and the leg loops... not sure how to remedy this but if anyone technical has any suggestions let em rip!

Falling: I was belaying a much larger friend of mine the other night on top rope. And I have to preface that before him I had told my friends they weren't allowed to fall..I was scared, you understand. Anyway, he fell and I belayed him normally and the harness didn't pop my belly like a zit and everything was cool. It was actually more comfortable to catch his fall than it is to sit back at the top of a climb before being lowered. (It takes me a minute to situate.)

Overall this harness is exactly what I need to keep myself climbing.
I'm amazed that my stamina is progressing. It's very strange to feel more able yet weaker. Even though my endurance for routes is getting better, my ability to yard on small holds is diminishing! Here is my latest work-out:

2 times per week, two hour session:
1. Warm up easy, juggy 5.7/5.8
2. Then 5.8/5.9
3. 5.10 with crimps, slopers, one dynamic move
4. 5.10 with big holds on an overhang to induce some pump.
5. 5.11 project with small holds and no rest
6. repeat crimpy 5.10
7. 5.10 with sustained and dynamic moves (this is the only climb I feel I really use my abdominals)
8. 5.10 that makes you use your brain
9. and 10. cool down on two easy climbs

I've also come up with a stretching regimen that I'll video and post eventually.
I hope this helps, keep sending your comments and questions my way. This is fun!