A stroll down the Priest Draw

I knew today was going to be out of the ordinary after a yellow mustang almost hit me head on while passing someone illegally in a residential zone. A shocking sort of day I might say was in store.
Just a day ago Ava and I made the summer pilgrimage to Flagstaff to be reunited with my husband and baby boy. I'm here doing my first of four clinical internships for Physical Therapy school. Being that I am back on my old familiar turf I chose to take my shoes and stroll down the Priest Draw. The area that I have spent countless hours of my life "hanging" out in. (Just love the pun for me. I know its cheeseball.)

It was 9:30 am and the first person I saw was a woman with a baby on her back walking in the new morning air. I started at the White wall, which in my head I call the refrigerator. I ended up trying this insanely hard little problem sort of mid wall with tiny greasy crimps. (Fess up people, who's done that thing. It's stinking hard.)

After flailing I decided to do a nature hike:

 

 

Nature's Folly.

I saw this little guy three separate times. I can tell cause he had this weird little stubby tail and sort of red eyes.

Anyway, I was really surprised to see several bikers. By 11 am I had seen more hikers/bikers than climbers. It was strange. It was also graduation last night so I assume everyone was hung over.

I was on my way to Mars Roof when I crossed through what I call the "For the kids" corridor. (a great boulder for kids) and my reminiscing mind was interrupted by this:

               This roof used to look like this:

It always reminds me of a cresting wave frozen in the desert by time. I mean, I've done Anorexic naked and barefoot (alone thankfully). The first v8 I ever did was Carnivore and I got the FFA of it. This boulder is my right of passage and to see it charred and my favorite sitting spot trundled and obliterated was enough to bring me to tears. Assholes.

So I have two questions.

Firstly, can we clean the soot off without damaging the rock?
Secondly, how do we take back the draw?

Something has to change because I have heard that this is not the first fire under the anorexic roof. All I can think of is booby traps. But then I may get a climber and not a red neck...assholes.

Active and Pregnant: ACOG guidelines

Amongst Physical Therapists and Exercise Physiologists there is an understanding that in order to have a healthy level of fitness you must exercise daily: 30 minutes of moderate exercise at least 5 days per week according to ACSM guidelines. I've always wondered why this same principle hasn't been applied to women who are healthy and pregnant. I mean being pregnant isn't like its an affliction!
Recently, the ACOG (American Congress of Obstetrics and Gynecology) released guidelines for exercise during pregnancy.
They list some of the benefits of exercise:

• Helps reduce backaches, constipation, bloating, swelling
• May help prevent or treat GESTATIONAL DIABETES
• Increases your energy
• Improves your mood
• Improves your posture
• Promotes muscle tone, strength, endurance
• Helps you sleep better

They go on to say that regular activity helps keep you fit during pregnancy and may improve your ability to cope with labor. Plus it may make it easier for you to get back into shape after the baby is born!!!

They listed some activities that are safe and I was surprised that running was amongst them. It's been long communicated that running was definitely not a good exercise. I've known MANY a pregnant runner so it's nice to see a change in the old mentality. And they mention cycling as a safe activity as well. "Aerobics is a good way to keep your heart and lungs strong."

I gotta say, I'm impressed.

Click HERE if you'd like to read the report in it's entirety.

A quick note, there are physical therapists out there, who have experience with women's health so if you ever have an issue: pain while exercising, not sure if an exercise is beneficial for you as a pregnant woman, or just pain during the pregnancy period. These therapists are the best resource for healthy fitness during pregnancy. If your insurance won't cover direct access to a therapist, ask your OB/GYN to refer you to one. Plus, they may know the therapist and save you some search time!!

So beautiful pregnant ladies and fathers to be, have fun out there!

Triassic, UT

Golden

Triassic is pretty close to Joe's valley. We had heard that you could climb there when it was snowing everywhere else. The drive down the snow covered dirt roads was unsettling given that we had driven 2.5 hours from Salt Lake for a day trip that may turn out to be a driving trip only. However, we were pleasantly surprised to find that the rocks provided a warm sunny spot to melt away the cold January Saturday.

The best looking problems in Triassic are tall and the top outs stand on their own. So be prepared. It's totally worth it.

Hannah Von atop the Sweet Boulder
(She brought Ava a giant pommelo as a gift this morning and presented it to her remarking, "I found a dinosaur egg!" Ava was delighted as she is somewhat of a dinosaur expert :)

Crazy Boulder

Me on Dynosaur

Dain Smaland

Another day stolen from the icy grip of winter.

Rock layers

Best problem of the day. I have no idea what it's called but it's on the Rum Boulder. Sit starts at the base of the left arete then follows up the prow. Mantel move to the jug in the middle of the face, then slab to the top. Brilliant. If it doesn't have a name, we shall call it, "Indian Paintings." After the only soul we saw out there stumbled upon us and announced he was "just walk'in ta see some Indian Paintings." classic. ps there are lots of petroglyphs (apparently. I think they were covered in snow) and Triassic is on the way to a dinosaur quarry. I am absolutely bringing Ava next time, though it is closed in the winter.

Indian Paintings :)

Hannah and I geeking out over cool hand holds and rock formations

Get Some Two Fingers
The top was covered in snow so we will just have to come back again for this one and many others. And maybe we'll get to see some indian paintings!

Sunset

23 and a half hours

Just in case you needed a reason.




So everyone knows it's good to exercise right? Why don't we apply this to pregnant women? Why aren't pregnant women told that exercise is good? What needs to change?

39 weeks and USA Today

Click photo to go to article

USA Today's Rita Rubin went out on an edge and wrote about fit pregnancies in today's paper. She and I spoke after she saw my video "39 weeks"



We had a wonderful discussion. Her keen observations and interest were inspiring. We spoke about the growing number of women who are actively seeking (pun intended) physical fitness throughout their pregnancy. Obviously, this isn't the first time in history that women have been active during pregnancy or even rock climbed during it for that matter. The point she was most interested in is to our cultures mentality of shunning exercise during pregnancy and also the lack of research to back up anything to the contrary. While I was pregnant (and I have an entire 9 months of blog posts if you click along) I tried to be mindful. I spoke with my doctor. I used the amazing amount of knowledge that I have gained about my own body through 7 years of competitive gymnastics, 10 years of dance and Pilates, along with 10 more years of climbing and now, Physical Therapy school.

We spoke about how I came to decide to continue climbing. My reply was very simple. After a clean bill of health I made a contract with myself that the moment climbing didn't feel GOOD, I would stop. And I found that with a shift in mentality, it always felt good! Thankfully.

I've talked to so many women since making the film "39 weeks". I've heard stories of women who wished there was something like this that they had known about. I've talked to women who have gone the distance by themselves as I did. All these women had varying degrees of physical ability both before and after pregnancy but all were able to continue running, or climbing, or dancing, or swimming, etc. throughout.

Personally, I cannot imagine running a marathon pregnant, but that's my body. We are all different and exercise should be a part of every person's life. Pregnant or not. This is the point that should be focused on. Why are we not applying our understanding of the human body and it's healthful functioning to women who are pregnant. Doesn't this seem counter-intuitive. Wouldn't we want women who are growing our future in their bellies to be the healthiest they can be? I know there needs to be a protective layer to all this but not so much that it resists the mere idea based on fear.

This is an amazing time! Here is the opportunity for research. We have started the discussion, let's spread the idea: Pregnant women are strong! I only hope that Johns Hopkins discovers that this statement has meaning.

Joe's Valley

When Kyle told me I should go on a climbing trip for a few days in order to night wean Sebastian, my first instinct was to run before he changed his mind. I am amazed with my husband's strong manlyness as well as his caring and sweet fatherlyness. He truly is the best man I've ever met. So, here is a taste of mama CC's first solo trip post babe. I'm not going to say it wasn't hard to leave. I saw a little baby on day two and started crying. I had to walk away and numb the pain on a heinously crimpy rock climb called "Hooters". And I'm not making up the name to fit my story either.


Lewis the dog and I set off in the morning to meet some of my PT school classmates in Joe's. We arrived a bit late, missed the warm up session and went straight to Planet of the Apes (v6).

Scott on Planet of The Apes

I need to get stronger to do this rock climb. I can't use the same holds everyone else does and I end up just sticking to some crimps next to the rail. It's not easy but it's a really cool climb. Even with my beta :)

We strolled up to Will's a fire and were met with a scene of people an pads. No fear here that's for sure!

Halley, Matt, Scott

Me doing my favorite move on Will's a Fire (v6).
Photo by Matthew Paul Irving taken with my camera.

He also took a photo of a disgusting toe that I will not be sharing with you. You can thank me when you see me. I did not send Will's, sadly. The top crimp kept moving further and further away from me. Sneaky crimp. We ended the day on Kill by Numbers. A nice little v5 roof with an awkward mantle finish. Just ask anyone there, I made that mantle look like a ballet. (read much sarcasm in that statement)

Photo by Matthew Paul Irving

There is a pizza joint in Castledale aptly named, "PIZZA" and this is what they sell. I highly recommend this place though sadly, there is no beer available. It is rumored that 4 guys finished one of these in 30 minutes. Just putting it out there.

Day two was full of high ball rock climbing. The agenda that morning was to go do Dirty Hairy and Frosted Flakes. I had neither seen nor heard much about either problem. With a leisurely start that entailed eggy goodness with green onion meatball crumbles, chopped veggies, basil, and parmesaen burritos. yum. breakfast is the most important meal of the day. We set off towards the Hulk area.
The UMWA and The Small one provided a 15 problem warm-up circuit that more than prepared us to crush. We walked up to Dirty Hairy amidst chatter about people flying off the top towards near death and being caught pretty much in the trees. I was paralyzed with fear. I walked up to it and announced that I would not be doing this boulder problem then commenced to analyzing the moves and holds and being increasingly full of nerves. The thing is, it's not really that hard. The moves at the bottom are techy and they get you up the boulder in fast time so before you know it you are pretty exposed for the crux which is the top out. Mike Pirozzi sensed the stagnation of psych and displayed ease on the lower moves. After a moment of contemplation I had a rouse of inspiration and proclaimed that I would, "Take this problem as my own." I watched Halley top it out and new it would be a stretch. Even though I didn't grab the side pull pocket well I was still able to have enough tough and spirit to engage the hold, realize the exposure and rally towards the top. HALLEY-luyah! Phew. Glad that's done. Glad I did it. Done. Now towards the Dairy where the problems are slopey and completely different!

Halley searching for the holds on a problem in the dairy.

Moon rise over our campsite.

Third day on and I was pretty much spent. I barely made it off the pad and seriously considered diving into this beautiful but icy cold stream.

Mike the rock climber.

Mike the angler.

Matt Pincus the crusher.

Will's a Fire will be mine. I would also like to try Big Joe, Big Boy, and complete my slopey proj in the dairy which is named something like Basher the buncher or Beshman or something. I call it "The confident Liar" and I am now a self proclaimed consultant for FA names. I have a whole list if anyone's interested.
CC

Days of Summer

Well, I've tried many times to do a summer post. Believe me I have. But every time I entered the office I felt that I would suffocate from heat stroke. Salt Lake in the summer is oppressively hot and I've heard that this summer was "quite mild". (blurgh) I almost burned myself putting my lap top on my lap last time I tried to write a post. These are my excuses and I'm sticking to them.
It is the first day of Fall and what a glorious change it has been. I feel relieved and almost post traumatically reminiscent of summer.
So here are some highlights:

Rock Mama Posse! I feel so lucky to have found the Rock Moms of SLC.

Blacksmith Fork Canyon in June

Kelly

Rosie and Mike


Controlled Chaos

I top roped the entire time. Unable to summon the lost courage to send 5.12 on the sharp end. It wasn't until John Sherman came to visit and imparted some hard man wisdom upon me. But before I relay it to you...the beach trip:

45 minutes outside of Vegas we had a blowout. 70 mph, I looked up from the passengers seat just in time to see our tire rolling off the side of the interstate. We were lucky and Volvo XC's are just as safe as they say.

San Clemente

Sebastian got his toes wet in the ocean waves for the first time. He loved it! He would just stomp and stare at the water as it rushed up toward him.

A level playing field: Goal by Ava with a strong assist by Luna and Ansel.


Carlsbad


Kyle and Bash

I had a whole two week break between semesters so we spent most of it driving :)
Upon returning to SLC we repacked the car and headed to Lander, WY with the Perozi's and Kris Dockstader and Noah Bigwood and their son Benjamin. Talk about some hard rock crushing family people...

Lander City Park. Not a bad place to camp.


Locals


Wild Iris: A pregnant and still crushing Cheryl.

I had a hard time keeping up. But those words of John Sherman's kept ringing in my ears. I made the mistake of telling him that I had been "taking" on sport climbs. Boy was that the wrong thing to say, let alone do. So hear it here people.

"Take. I don't know what that means." the Verm exploded. "We never took in the old days. We didn't trust our gear enough to do that."
"So what if the route was at your end range? What if you couldn't make it to the top?" I asked
"We made it to the top no matter what." He said with a tone of arrogance. (Such that any well versed OLD school climber is entitled to.)
"We would down climb, rest, shake it out. And continue up. That's how you get strong."

So this is the mantra I had in my head as we embarked upon Wild Iris.

"Take? What does that even mean?"

I embodied this to the best of my ability and surprised myself. I also backed off of a couple routes that were above my ability but I learned. I also led and fell and cleaned my first 12 since having Sebastian. It was rejuvinating. It scared me and I would totally do it again!

"Take? No way."

Ava sent her own boulder problem and then jumped off the summit. Ala Steph Davis...but not high and without a parachute...

So here's to the end of summer. Thank God. Now lets go bouldering.